I'm curvaceous, go steady

The title of this post is my new motto/phrase/whatever. Its also a sign on the way from Manali to Leh! The signs were FANTASTIC!

cutting mountains, but joining hearts
If youre married, divorce speed
Better to be mr late, than late mr
stop gossiping, let him drive
dont be a gama in the land of the llamma (<-- whatas a gama??)

The jeep ride from Manali to Leh was quite an adventure. All the things i had read about it described as a long, curvy, bumpy journey but breathtaking. Boy were they right!

First off, our driver, Nihal, was ABSOLUTELY amazing. I trusted him with my life -- LITERALLY. So if anyone needs a jeep ride from Manali to whereever, or a trekking guide, let me know and I'll send along his info.

Heres a map showing the journey -- AND ALTITUDE! Point of reference, Mt Rainier summit is 14,411ft/4,392.5 m.


Some highlights of the trip:
-- suppose to leave Manali at 9am, but instead we had to leave at 630am! (only found out by Matt coming to find me in the hallway of my hotel in my PJs (couldnt sleep). gotta love cell phone free time). The early departure was because the army closes the road to clear all the rocks from the avalanches -- WAIT what??
-- Main road is backed up so Nihal takes another way which entails going over a TINY bridge
-- A giant boulder rock came tumbling down and almost hit a guy
-- rest of the drive was VERY bumpy and windy.
-- But absolutely fantastic company. I feel really fortunate that it all worked out getting a jeep with this group
-- Brits love finding out about growlers...
-- Left Keylong at 530am!
-- Soon thereafter, traffic is stopped because of what is basically a GIANT STREAM in the middle of the road (stupid rain). We have to get out of the jeep and hobble over rocks and jump over the water to safety. phew! There was another larger ravine thing later in the trip. I stayed in the jeep (i trusted the driver more than me! The 3 women who werent in the jeep just barely made the leap)

-- Saw a couple over turned gas tankers. Really puts things into perspective. makes me wonder if me being able to go up to Leh is really worth the harm it causes
-- People actually make the trip on foot cycles. WTF?!?!?!
-- High altitude has the same effects as laughing gas. I laughed for hours which when the air is so thin, also means you borderline faint
-- Passed over the 2nd highest pass in the world! The first highest is on the other side of Leh. I think im going to go over there in September
-- Altitude sickness aint anything to f with
-- the small villages/bay of tents along the way are wonderful

The journey really was really full of the most beautiful scenery Ill ever see. That said, I'm never making that jeep journey again :)

Trying to figure out what to do in September. Thinking Leh -> Shrinigar (houseboat -- WOHOO! Kashmir? hmm... ) --> Dharmsala --> Delhi. But not sure if i can fit it all in. it might involve flying.

ok im out... More on Leh later. But let me tell you. wow. i might never leave.

What a journey...

Made it to Leh late last night. What a journey! I'll write more details later. For all the struggles it entailed, the views were worth it times a million.



And heres the amazingly wonderful Brits + Scot that I made the trip with.

My first India life lesson

I made it to Manali! Phew what an adventure this last couple days have been. Like I said in my previous post, I met up with Rachel in Delhi. We had a nice dinner in Delhi at a revolving restaurant. After a solid nights sleep (that means only waking up 4 times), Rachel and I checked out of our hotel and made our way to Jantar Mantar http://www.shubhyatra.com/delhi/jantar-mantar.html, the old Indian observatory. I will admit that the inner math nerd was a bit excited. Afterwards we headed over to Red Fort for more tourist stuff. It is indeed an impressive sight which included an open-aired marble emperors palace that had a small waterway running from each building and into the various rooms. Wish it had been on, but yeah yeah yeah waste of water, whatever.

This is when things started to deteriorate. The heat, humidity, jet lag, and I think my altitude sickness medicine that I started to take made for one CRANKY Jen. We were scheduled to meet two other women, Luciana and Emma, at the swanky Shangri-La Hotel at 3pm. We left Red Fort at about 2 (or a little later). I realized i was a cranky wanker, but was trying my best to achieve my goal of not being a control freak. Rachel needed to go to the ATM, which when added with a tuk tuk driver who dropped us off at the wrong place, made for a long journey. Then by the time we got our bags from the hotel, it was 3:45!

Control freak Me: We shouldve hired a car like I wanted. Now cranky + irritated.

We make it to the meeting spot with no sight of two brit girls. Rachel had the amazing idea to sit and have a pepsi. That combined with AC, beautiful 5-star lobby, and women wearing amazing saris lifted my spirits a bit. Plus 5-star concierge service helping us figure out how to get a bus to Manali. As we leave, a random guy asked if we were looking for 2 british women. Agh we JUST missed them! They left at 4!

We lug our stuff a few blocks to the bus terminal place. Random guy out front pesters us and says the bus from the official tourist agency is full. I think its a crappy tout. Wait. nope. bus full. Traipse to another private bus down the road. Loads of talk in Hindi. Tout? Me: raging bitch about to bust out.

All buses full.

Control freak me: Shouldve prebooked our friggin tickets. Now we have to spend another night in this hot, sticky, dusty, crazy place called Delhi and miss meeting other people in Manali. Want to scream/cry/go home/smack the smiling/laughing potentially scheisty men.

Oh wait! There is light! Theres seats that arent together. thats ok right? Wait, you want us to pay for the jump seat that folds down over the stairs onto the bus while we go up and down a mountain? Umm.....

Deep breath (many).... Ok, we'll just get tickets for the next day. Stay the night somewhere...

Then voila! Two seats together in the last row (no idea how they booted someone but whatevs). Ah, India, ok I get it. Patience.

Control Freak me: We still missed Luci and Emma. Irritated. (and worried theyre ok and got on a bus)

The bus ride is surprisingly comfy and pleasant. It drove all night up and down some crazy steep mountains and very narrow roads -- with absurd drops off the "side" of the road. Rachel is also pretty sure she saw 3 people get out of the luggage boot under the bus midway (how we got our seats?). And we think we witnessed some bribing and drug trafficking in the cover of the night. Here's a lovely sign from one of the rest stops. Perhaps not a good choice of toilet to use?




The break of light brought breathtaking views. I only wish I knew how to properly take pictures to show you how lush, green, and steep the mountains were. But heres a pic anyways.



Ok, ok India, I get it. Let the irritation go.

We finally role into Manali. Trying to figure out where to stay and theres lots of men trying to get us to stay at their hotels. We end up just going with this one guy who of course lied about the room having two beds and being nice. He takes us around to find another place and keeps bringing us to dumps. Tout? Yes, me thinks. We end up just taking a room at a pricey room (well pricey for manali, but really at Rs1600 thats ~$27/night). While waiting for our room, Rachel gets a call from Matt! HOORAY! UGH phone died...

Me: still irritated and cranky and thinking we wont meet up with Matt. Oh and did I mention I hadnt had an actual meal since breakfast the previous day? Irritated+cranky+low-blood sugar. blargh.

I shower, etc. As I'm packing my purse to go explore, Rachels phone rings again. Matt! He's met up with two others (hooray!). We're staying at Hotel Kanishka. Lets meet at ___ call dropped.

UGH. Want to scream from being frustrated.

I get a spare key from reception (after asking twice --A-hole) Then I forgot something in the room. As Im leaving the room again, I run smack dab into Matt. He made it to our hotel! SUCCESS!

He's going to come to the main shopping area with me. He had also emailed us and Luci about meeting up at 2 in Old Manali so we head p there instead on the off chance that Luci is there. We wait by the bridge at a cafe (and have YUMMY veg Momos= dumplings). We wait outside with (sugary) chais as it pours. Hmmm 2om, no Luci and no email. DOH. We chat away, then, wait, who is that across the way.... Luci? YEP! She didnt even know to meet there, Totally wonderful twist of fate that she was staying up there and heading into town at that exact moment.

Now, private jeep is booked for a 2 day drive up windy (and scary?) roads to Leh, Ladakh.

Ok India, I get it. Let the control freakness go =D

Much love!

PS -- I checked in. I bet I'm Mayor of Manali

Check out my dinner from the airplane...

... it tasted a lot better than it looked.

I'm off to start my journey up to Ladakh!

I havent had time/access to update my blog. Maybe tonight?

A new blogger!

Here's a blog of a woman I'm traveling with, Rachel. She's from a small island in Scotland! Shouldve made her bring me some drink to warm my tummy.

http://wildandmagic.blogspot.com/

I'm showing her how to make posts...

Here's a picture of the Lotus Temple, its made out of white marble!

photo dump

here are a few (unfiltered) photos from yesterday. Took way too long to upload so looks like ill have to control my picture trigger finger....

http://www.flickr.com/photos/23855148@N05/sets/72157624438538543/

real life frogger

Survived the 16 hour flight to Delhi! I'm on day 2/3 of Delhi.

I just checked into the Corus hotel where I'll be staying for the next two nights. Can't say I'm all that impressed so far. Its by no means bad, but after the last couple nights at Yogi's, this doesnt feel as comfy.

Yogi is a woman from couchsurfing.com who let me stay at her place for my first two nights. She was incredibly hospitable and welcoming. She lives in a southern suburb of Delhi in a 3BR/3 bath flat she owns with her 3 (fat and sometimes ferocious) dogs. I was welcomed with open arms, delicious food, and my own room. From what I can tell, she does quite well for herself (owns a small company, brand new jeep, huge flat, a few people who tend to the cleaning, cooking, security, etc). It was interesting to stay at this nice place where in the mornings I'd stand out on the balcony and watch men and women do construction without shoes (or flip flops) and little more equipment than a piece of plastic used as a shovel. Heres a pic (or i at least hope that it uploads.) I cant really tell why she is doing what shes doing. Sure, the dirt needs to be sifted. By why thrown through the screen? why is it vertical? why not have it horizontal from the ground and speed up the process? I was going to try and use my hindi phrasebook to ask the young cleaning woman (who i dont think has ever seen a chinese chick before because she was quite fascinated by me), but there was lots lost in translation.

Alrighty, its lunch time and I'm in Delhi, so lets get to speed recapping...

- Breakfast with Yogi of juice and grilled sandwich with this spiced cheese with onions
- just so i remember, Yogi lives by Prahlud Pur and Lalkuan
- Got dropped off down the hill from the Bahai Lotus Temple. walked right by the entrance but a tuk tuk driver walked me to the entrance
- Temple architecture was awe inspiring. the inside, while serene was a bit more austere than i was expected. after walking through the info center, aside from knowing there are lovely Bahai temples throughout the world, i still had no idea what the Bahai faith is all about aside from worshipping a god and believing that men and women are completely equal.
- Next the tuk tuk driver that showed me the way waited for me at the gate. I negotiated a price (70 Rs) for a ride over to Lodi Garden, which was what Yogi told me would be the max. oops perhaps i should work on my negotiating skillz.
- The tuk tuk driver "kindly" offered to take me to Delhi Haat so I could shop. Walk in and realize its a tourist trap and am instantly bombarded with people trying to help me. I initially pretended I was part of a group of Thai women, but they were loving seeing all the stuff, so I ran away from the land of overstimulation
- i loved Lodi Garden. beautiful park in the middle of the city with an old tomb in the center. lots of cute happy couples in love strolling (and necking:0). As i was journaling by the water, i was attacked by two women. ok not attacked, but before i could even understand what was going on they were putting "henna" (pretty sure it was just mud) on my arms. saying no didnt do anything. Then they demanded 100 Rs, actually this little 2 year old asked for money. it was a bit much for me. I gave them 5 rupees and ran off. Gotta get my city thinking back.

yikes... this is not speed updating... hyperupdating
- from there walked over to Khan Market -- upscale shopping
- made the stupid decision to walk to Humanyuns Tomb. it was far. and involved walked under a giant overpass.
- but i did get to be the frog in frogger. at the beginners level. Delhi-ites are at in the pros
- Humanyuns Tomb was truly spectacular. Id def go again on another trip.
- Exhausted, but decided to check out Qutb Minar. tallest tower in india (i think). was nice but at that point i was completely overstimulated, jetlagged and needed a shower.
- got a tuk tuk back to Yogis place (with another stopover at a "great shopping mall"). Im positive I gave the tuk tuk driver way too much money. I did this mornining as well even though Yogi arranged it so that the driver actually used the meter. But I decided yesterday that i dont mind over paying for the tuk tuk. i was in those things for 30 minutes and i would "overpay" at 100 rs -- $2.21! i know it just perpetuates the fleecing of tourists, but really, I cant haggle over 50 cents when Im already getting a huge deal.
- I have no idea how I found Yogis place, as she told me to get dropped off a few blocks away to save lots of rupees. I hope the travel gods stay with me!
- after returning from work, Yogi made dinner of rice, chole (chick peas with cinnamon and i think cumin?), some potatoes and green peppers. delicious with a nice kick of spice
- Jet lag sleeping sucks
- this morning was fairly uneventful, aside from two of Yogis dogs almost attacking me. i was coming back inside and they started growling. me = run fast to the porch and shut them in. Phew. it was a bit scary.

ok enough sitting in front of a computer (although the email addict in me was a bit bummed to have so few emails to read ;) ). Off to find lunch!

Chi-town

Entering hour 3 of my 4 hour layover at ohare. I'm really happy I
caught the CNN breaking news of the hour before I leave the states for
a lil while. Seems miss Lindsay is in jail! GASP! TMZ must be going
nuts.

So I think I'm supposed to take a moment for reflection and think
about what I want to get out of this interlude.

I think my main goal is to explore the wonders of being content in the
immediate. This means giving up some of my controlling tendencies,
being fully aware of my surroundings and not needing constant
stimulation for entertainment. Well, I guess really I mean replacing
technology w mountainscapes.

Ok being deep isn't working for me right now. Oh, but I did start
crying this morning on the drive to seatac w my sister when a song
about sisters came on. Stupid sister

I'm off to do some laps around the airport for an hour. I ended up
checking my pack (23 pounds! I think I overpacked).

Check ya in India.

My last night in Seattle

My flight leaves in 8 hours! Wow, I guess this is really going to happen...

I'm pretty exhausted from the scurrying around all day today and the
crazy late night last night of final emails and treating my clothes
with permethin. It is suppose to deter mosquitoes, gnats, chiggers,
ticks, etc. it was only after i probably inhaled half of the stuff I
was spraying on my clothes that I realized that this stuff is pretty
noxious. Shouldve sprayed that stuff weeks ago so my brain cells
couldve recuperated.

ANYWAYS.... I'm tired. But trying to do the blog thing....

True story: I'm an idiot and forgot that when you put everything you
own in storage and try to sleep on the couch, things like "blankets"
dont exist. Last night I used a towel and a sweatshirt to keep
"warm". Ghetto-fabulous til the end!

People keep asking me how I feel. Really how I feel is sort of
completely devoid of emotion right now, perhaps living in the
Himalayas will make me less cold-hearted.

I think I should take bets of when I will lose my marbles completely
and the tidal wave of emotions come out. I'm thinking itll be the
first time I have to milk a yak. No, just kidding. Thats one of the
things Im looking forward to doing. That and
slaughtering/skinning/cooking an animal and eating all the random
meals that come from random animal parts (not Andrew Zimmern crazy
though, I have (some) limits). Too macabre?

Oh wait, this blog post is suppose to have some sort of theme or
something. Or be remotely coherent. Instead its a bit ADD. Oh well.
I am what I am and I ams tired.

Sleep tight Seattle!

The institute organizing my stay in Ladakh

Here's a link... www.isec.org.uk

Really this is just a post to see if I can really post via iPhone on wireless:)

JC

My announcement (via email 7/6)

It's probably time I give everyone an update on my going ons. I've been losing track of who I've already talked about my next few months and year, which is basically because I'm an idiot :)

Although grad school has been filled with such joys of endless problem sets, exams, long nights, and much frustration, I've decided to take my Masters and run, meaning I'm on a potentially indefinite sabbatical from my phd program.

That means its time for fun!

I leave Seattle on July 20th for a 2 month trip to India. For the first few days, I'll be in Dehli (recommendations for places to stay, things to see etc, much appreciated). Then, I'm traveling up to Ladakh via Manali, where I'll be at a homestay for the month of August. Plans in September are completely up in the air, just like me since I'll be in the middle of the Himalayas.

Even though I have a return ticket to Seattle on September 20th, I'm skipping out on it. Instead, I'm taking door number 2 and going to...

Singapore!

I'll be in Singapore for a whole year working with a professor (and friend who graduated from UW a couple years ago) at the National University of Singapore on a project with the United Nations to project city urbanization.

My current address and cell number will be obsolete in a couple weeks.
Relevant contact info:

1.234.CHUNN55 (1.234.248.6655) -- Google voice number that I will be checking regularly. My 206 number will disappear at the end of July

Skype ID: jenchunn

US address:
c/o Jeanie Chunn (kick-ass-sister and soon-to-be-mail-trafficker)
XXXXX
Seattle, WA 98122

So. yep, thats what I'm up to these days. Come visit Singapore or anywhere else in SE Asia!

Cheers,

Jen